15 Best Things to Do in Port Townsend
Port Townsend is one of the most charming towns in the Pacific Northwest. Once a turn-of-the-century boom town, age sits lightly on the heavy brick of its Victorian buildings. Tourist-friendly shops fill the downtown waterfront, from turquoise and bubblegum pink diners to cozy, understated tea shops. Only an hour from Olympic National Park, it’s an easy drive to some of Washington’s wildest and most dramatic scenery. Closer to town, state parks on the shores of Port Townsend Bay are beautiful places for an afternoon walk on the beach, where, with some luck, you might spot sea otters or whales. Here are the best things to do in Port Townsend, Washington.
1. Stroll down Water Street
Port Townsend Bay
Port Townsend’s waterfront feels like a time capsule. It has an Old West look that’s not quite like anywhere else in the Pacific Northwest. Horses and carriages would not seem out of place, nor would watch chains and whalebone corsets. The town had a building boom in the late 1800s, which stagnated by the 1920s. Tough economic times had the unexpected benefit of preserving the Victorian buildings, albeit with a good deal of help and dedication from the residents.
Hastings Building on Water Street
Today, Port Townsend is thriving. Cafes, restaurants, bookstores, art galleries, and boutique shops line Water Street. You’re never more than a few steps away from Port Townsend Bay, where you might spot seabirds perched on offshore pilings and otters bobbing near shore. Docks, patios, and miniature parks along Water Street offer many opportunities to spend time near the water. One of the best things to do is to walk out to the end of the longest dock and visit the 42-foot reconstructed whale skeleton named Gunther.
2. Explore Fort Worden State Park
Fort Worden Historical State Park
Pass required: Washington Discover Pass, $10/day or $30/year. You can buy a pass on-site.
Fort Worden State Park is a former US Army base that’s now a sprawling and quirky park packed with things to do. You’ll find decommissioned batteries just about anywhere you start exploring. Many of the old military buildings are still standing and have new functions as lodging or event spaces. Somebody cuts the acres of grass lawns around them, making most of the park look like a residential area. Things start to look more natural once you get down to the water.
Point Wilson Lighthouse
A long sandy beach runs along the mouth of Puget Sound, perfect for a stroll. Point Wilson Lighthouse stands at the park’s northeast corner. The Port Townsend Marine Science Center is at the end of a dock. Look for birds like gulls, cormorants, grebes, and murres in the Sound. If you’re lucky, you might spot orcas or whales in the distance.
3. Walk around uptown
St. Paul’s in uptown is Port Townsend’s oldest church
Navigating Port Townsend is easy, and this comes from the world’s most directionally challenged person. Starting from the downtown waterfront, head a few blocks north and walk up the big hill. At the top, you’ll be in uptown. This neighborhood is full of beautiful Victorian houses and churches, and a walking tour here is one of the best things to do in Port Townsend. Look for the 75-foot wooden bell tower at the corner of Tyler and Jefferson St. The brass bell was once used as the town’s fire alarm. Now, it’s ornamental. Behind the bell tower is a vista overlooking downtown and Port Townsend Bay.
Pane d’Amore
Uptown’s other main attractions are food and drink-related. Stop by Pane d’Amore for delicious baked goods. Walk through Aldrich’s, a swanky convenience store with temptations like organic produce, coffee drinks, and artisan jewelry. For special occasions, make dinner reservations at Finistère. On Saturdays from late spring to mid-December, uptown hosts the Port Townsend Farmer’s Market.
4. Chetzemoka Park
Chetzemoka Park gazebo
Chetzemoka Park is a cute city park on the east side of town with views of the water. It’s walkable from downtown and uptown Port Townsend. Look for the usual amenities like picnic tables, BBQs, restrooms, and a playground. The more unique features are the gazebo built in 1904 and the arbor-covered walkway. A short trail leads to a narrow beach. To the north, you’ll see a tiny white dot that is Point Wilson Lighthouse. On a clear day, look for views of the Cascade Mountains across Admiralty Inlet. Chetzemoka Park is a nice place to visit year-round, but looks best in summer when the flowers are blooming.
5. North Beach County Park
North Beach County Park
North Beach County Park at the northwest corner of Fort Worden State Park feels worlds away from the military buildings and batteries. Development is minimal here. It’s just you and the beach. It’s also free to visit. Once you’re on the sand, look east to see a glimpse of Point Wilson Lighthouse. On a clear day, you can see Mount Baker and the North Cascades. North Beach County Park is the starting point for the walk to Glass Beach at McCurdy Point, a beach known for having abundant sea glass. To reach Glass Beach, head west for about 3 miles on foot. Don’t try to drive to McCurdy Point. There’s no public access. I checked. If you decide to tackle the beach walk, make sure to time your visit around low tide. High tide covers the shoreline, and people have gotten stuck.
6. Have drinks on the water
Better Living Through Coffee
One of the main charms of Port Townsend is how easy it is to sit by the water. Restaurants, cafes, and bars along Water Street have big windows overlooking the bay and patios that become irresistible when the sun comes out. I liked Port Townsend at first glance, but I didn’t fall in love until I saw a sea otter floating next to the patio where I was having a glass of wine.
Here are some great places with views of the Port Townsend Bay:
Better Living Through Coffee in the heart of Water St is perfect for enjoying bay views with a cup of coffee.
Vintage is a wine bar with a large patio next to the water. It’s where I saw the otter.
Quench Waterfront Bar & Kitchen overlooks the bay from a second-story restaurant serving Hawaiian-inspired cuisine. Seagulls watch you through the windows while you eat.
7. Visit a speakeasy
Cocktails at The In Between
Port Townsend’s best cocktail bar has zero street presence. The In Between is on the second floor of a three-story building on Water St, above a bookshop and below Sirens Pub (both are also worth visiting). You won’t see a sign. Just head inside and go up the first flight of stairs. Turn right at the top to enter the cozy speakeasy-style bar with 1920s flair. The drinks are on point, whether it’s twists on classic cocktails or original creations. The cocktails made with non-alcoholic spirits are just as inventive as the boozy ones. The food is small plates like bao, tacos, and mac & cheese.
8. Have a proper scone at Cafe Tenby
The proper scone
Cafe Tenby in downtown Port Townsend has a high tea service with tea, scones, pastries, and lil’ sandwiches. Although one of the best things to do in town, high tea takes a little planning since you need a reservation. If, like me, you’re more of a last-minute planner, you can just stop in and order a la carte. I suggest the proper scone, which comes with generous dollops of jam and clotted cream, although it’s hard to pass up the chocolate cheesecake brownie, blueberry muffin, and savory breakfast sandwiches. Cafe Tenby is known for its high-quality loose-leaf tea. I’m a hopeless American who got coffee anyway. It was great, no regrets.
9. Find the Undertown
Undertown entrance
On rainy days, shopping is one of the best things to do in Port Townsend. The downtown stores pack a lot of variety into a few condensed blocks. Beyond the easily visible shops on street level, you can head below ground and explore the Undertown. Look for a staircase starting from the sidewalk on Taylor St. Follow it down to a subterranean world of upscale gifts and sundries. Honestly, I was hoping for a pirate lair or at least a dive bar, but scented candles are nice, too. Next to the Undertown entrance is another point of interest, the Rose Theater. Once a vaudeville theater, this historic cinema retains much of its original character.
10. Try the restaurants
Tacos at La Cocina
Port Townsend has a great restaurant scene. Here are some of my favorite places:
For breakfast, go to Cafe Tenby if you don’t go for high tea. Pane d’Amore also has great baked goods, just know that seating is very limited, so you’ll probably be taking your order to go. The Courtyard Cafe is also a good choice for breakfast or lunch.
For lunch or dinner, La Cocina has delicious Mexican food.
Quench Waterfront Bar & Kitchen has Hawaiian-inspired cuisine and big windows overlooking Port Townsend Bay.
Sirens Pub has a balcony on the bay and a cozy indoor space. They often have events like live music or karaoke.
For fine dining, go to Finistère.
11. Visit a haunted castle
Manresa Castle
Completed in 1892, Manresa Castle was the home of Port Townsend’s first mayor, Charles Eisenbeis, and his wife, Kate. The castle retains many of the ornate and over-the-top features you’d expect in the home of an early industrialist. Today, it’s a hotel with a few bars and a restaurant inside. It’s also gotten a reputation for being haunted. A few years ago, I stayed overnight. The room I had was across the hall from one of the supposedly most haunted rooms (306 and 302). It was a quiet and pleasant night. I didn’t hear odd knocking or see flickering lights that others have reported. I will say, though, that I hated opening the closet. It looked fine, just felt bad. Power of suggestion? Very possibly. But I still left my coat wadded up in the suitcase rather than subject it to the horrors of the closet. Even if you’re not staying overnight, grab a drink and have a look around. It’s a fun place to explore.
12. Port Townsend State Park
Torpedo X-ray tower in Port Townsend State Park
Pass required: Washington Discover Pass, $10/day or $30/year. You can buy a pass on-site.
Just south of town, Port Townsend State Park feels like the wilderness. Peaceful hiking trails explore a lush Doug fir, cedar, sword fern, and salal forest. In the fall, look for mushrooms aplenty in the undergrowth. On the east side of the park, a short trail leads from the day-use parking area to Port Townsend Bay. Like Fort Worden, Port Townsend State Park was once a US Army base, although the similarities end there. Few military structures remain in Port Townsend State Park. A fire destroyed many of the buildings in the late 1800s. One curiosity remains: a large WWII-era torpedo X-ray tower that you can walk through. Look for it on the Madrona Trail.
13. Fort Flagler State Park
Battery at Fort Flagler
Pass required: Washington Discover Pass, $10/day or $30/year. You can buy a pass on-site.
To the east of Port Townsend are two islands you can reach by road. The first, Indian Island, is mostly occupied by a naval base. The next, Marrowstone Island, is worth checking out if you’re looking for an easy excursion that doesn’t take you too far out of town. Fort Flagler State Park is at the island’s north end, surrounded by water on three sides. Walking along a bluff above Puget Sound, you can see Port Townsend and Whidbey Island. On a clear day, look for views of the Olympic and Cascade Mountains. A highlight of my visit was seeing groups of sea lions and a few harbor seals in the water below the bluff. The rest of the things to do in the park will be most interesting if you enjoy military history. It has a ton of decommissioned batteries and buildings.
Harbor seal swims below Fort Flagler
On your way back to town, Marrowstone Vineyard is a lovely place to stop for a wine tasting. The patio is a treat on a sunny day. On rainy ones, the inside is warm and cozy. The winery overlooks grape vines backed by views of Puget Sound. Most of the grapes come from the Columbia Valley, especially Yakima Valley and Rattlesnake Hills. For $15, you get the winemaker’s rotating picks in a tasting. If you’re looking for a glass pour, the Sangiovese was our favorite.
Marrowstone Vineyard
14. Have pizza and cider at Finnriver Farm & Cidery
Finnriver Cidery
Finnriver Farm & Cidery is an organic farm and orchard about 20 minutes from downtown Port Townsend. If you visit Fort Flagler on Marrowstone Island, it’s an easy stop on the way back. The taproom has around 14 rotating ciders on tap, plus a couple of beers. Apples for the cider come from the 40 varieties that grow in Finnriver’s orchard. Wednesdays are bring-your-own picnic days. Dented Buoy sells wood-fired pizzas on the weekend alongside Finnriver’s usual food menu. Check out the calendar for events like live music.
15. Go birdwatching at Kah Tai
Kah Tai
Kah Tai is a pretty park that is more of a destination for locals than tourists. It’s a prime spot for dog walking or a quick after-work stroll by the lake. Only a 20-minute walk from downtown, it’s easier to reach than the state parks around Port Townsend. The downside is that it’s also more developed and too close to major roads to escape the noise. Kah Tai’s major draw for visitors is birdwatching. Mallards and grebes were swimming around the lake when I visited. A bald eagle passed overhead. If you love birds, stop by with a pair of binoculars.
Best things to do in Port Townsend, the summary:
Stroll down Water Street
Explore Fort Worden State Park
Walk around uptown
Chetzemoka Park
North Beach County Park
Have drinks by the water
Visit a speakeasy
Have a proper scone at Cafe Tenby
Find the Undertown
Try the restaurants
Visit a haunted castle
Port Townsend State Park
Fort Flagler State Park
Have pizza and cider at Finnriver Farm & Cidery
Go birdwatching at Kah Tai
Enjoy your trip to Port Townsend!
With love,
Emma
Explore nearby
The beautiful Falls View Canyon hike is about 40 minutes south of Port Townsend.
Find the Pacific Northwest Trolls.
